Exterior Car Parts

Thanks for visiting our site!
Door Sill
Checkout Ebay Auctions For The Cheapest Prices

Here are some more information for Door Sill:

Installing casing trim around door openings and window frames can be a bit more difficult if you are looking for a professional looking finish. Certain techniques need to be employed to be sure the trim is cut to the exact form fitting precision, and using the right tools are necessary to ensure the job can be done quickly and smoothly.

Casing trim must be installed around all door openings first, before any baseboard trim can be laid down. The baseboard will then butt up against the casing for a nice looking finish. All casing should be ideally painted or stained finished before the install, as painting it afterwards can be more tedious.

Having the proper tools are an important part of a clean and efficient install. The typical measuring tape and pencil are your staple tools, along with a hammer and nail set. Have the appropriate length finishing nails for the thickness of your trim. For a standard sized casing trim, have 1 1/2" nails and 1" finishing nails. Having an electric chop saw, or miter saw is important, along with a small step ladder. It will usually take many cuts to achieve the perfect fit and a hand saw and mitering block will be more difficult to use efficiently. Finally, if your casing will have a painted finish, you have the luxury of using a paintable caulking to hide all seams and cracks for the ultimate clean install. Have a caulking gun and the necessary amount of caulking in a color that best matches your wall or casing color.

For a door trim casing install, start with the two vertical trim pieces first. Obviously there is a gap between the edge of the drywall and the finished door frame. Ideally we would like to cover this leaving the trim about 3/16" back from the inside edge of the finished door frame.

Now, assuming your door frame angles are approximately 90 degrees, cut the top of the casing piece at a 45 degree angle. Keep the shorter side on the inside and the longer side of the cut on the outside, of course. Don't forget to allow for the 3/16" spacing for the top board. The best way to do this is to stand the trim piece up on end, in place, and mark with a sharp pencil, on the inside side of the trim, a little tick at the appropriate height. Make your miter cut at a 45, using this pencil tick as a guide; it's important to be precise here. There's nothing wrong with cutting it a bit "long" to start, test fit it, and then working your way down bit by bit until the proper length is achieved.

Nail the board on using both sizes of finishing nails. Use the 1 ½" nails on the outer portion of the trim, nailed into the jack stud behind, and use the 1" finishing nails on the inner portion of the trim, nailing through to the finished door frame. Use nails every 1' to 2' apart, or as necessary, and counter sink with the nail set. Do the same with the trim piece on the other side of the doorway.

This leaves just the top casing piece to fit in between the two side pieces, and 45 degree angle joins. I like to start by cutting one end of the top trim piece at a 45 and test fit that end. It's helpful to have a helper hold the other end of the piece up as you check the fit. If you don't have another ladder for your helper, they can stand on a solid chair, or even a sturdy coffee table. Make sure the trim piece is horizontally in line with the top of the door frame, about 3/16" above the lip. The angled end join should fit leaving only a smooth flat seam line. If not, then you will have to make a cut at a slightly different angle to compensate.

Switch sides with your helper and mark the angled cut for the other side. The top casing piece will overlap the side piece, so you will be able to line up and mark the top and bottom for the exact angled cut. Set your miter saw up to the appropriate angle as measured, don't assume 45 degrees, use the angle measured. Make the cut about ¼ too long and then check for angle fitment, using a helper to hold the other end up again. If the angle was correct, whittle cut bit by bit, until the trim piece fits snugly and perfectly between the two side casings and nail it home. The same technique can be used for window trim, except the bottom piece will be like the top piece.

If there were any imperfections or crack lines exposed, use the caulking to runs beads around all sides of the casing, and smooth out with a finger. Only do this for painted trim, the wood finish trim may look awful if you try to caulk the cracks. You can also fill the angle join cracks with the caulking, as well as the nail holes, or just use wood filler. You can then repaint or touch up paint the casing, or if the casing color was a close match, just leave it. Good luck!!

For other articles of interest, please see how a black glass coffee table or a White coffee table can make the perfect center pieces.

Locks And Bolts For External Doors

Bolts can be used to provide extra security on external doors fit one to both top and bottom of the door. Barrel, padbolts and tower bolts can be screwed to the sur¬face of a door. Each has a long bolt which is generally shot into a staple (a hoop of metal) fixed to the door frame. Always choose a bolt with a heavy-duty staple and long fixing screws. Alternatively, the bolt may be shot into the sill or floor or into the door frame.

The bolts are neither key-operated nor deadlocking and so may be easily undone if access is possible. If you want to use one near glass, chose a padbolt - these can be secured by a padlock.

Flush bolts work in a similar way to tower and barrel bolts - in that they shoot a bolt into the frame and are non-locking - but they are designed to be mortised into the edge or face of the door. This makes them particularly suitable for double doors or where a concealed fitting is required.

Locking bolts
You can get key-operated bolts which fit on the face of a door, but the better choice for a normal door is a mortise rack bolt.

For double doors which open out¬wards, fitting a mortise rack boll can be difficult and there is a special type of lock¬ing bolt which is fitted to the inner surface of the door and shoots a bolt up into a staple fitted to the underside of the top of the door frame. The lock is pushed to close: a key is needed to open it.

Because these locks are operated from the inside, they do not have as many key differs as external door locks.

Mortise rack bolts
These can be mortised into the edge of a wooden door and should be fitted so that the key is on the inside face. They are inconspicuous when fitted and will resist some forcing. The deadbolt is operated by a key and enters a striking plate mortised into the door frame. Each model usually has one universal key only. Some mortise rack bolts can be unlocked without a key these should not be used next to glass.

You should fit mortise rack bolls to both the top and the bottom of a door: on French windows, fit four not just two on the closing leaf. To do this you have to cut a mortise in the edge of a door in a similar manner to that described for Fit¬ting a mortise deadlock -but in this case the hole for the key should not be drilled right through the door.

Padlocks
These can be used with a hasp and staple (together often called a padlock bar) to lock garden sheds, gara¬ges and so on. The hasp is fitted to the door or gate and the staple to the frame. The padlock locks the two together. Choose a heavy-duty hasp and staple with fixing screws which are concealed when the padlock is in place. Use a closeshackle padlock which has the hoop (shackle) close to the body of the lock.

Other security devices for doors
Hinge bolts (sometimes called dog bolts). These provide protection against forcing (or even removal) of a wooden door from the hinge side, particularly doors which open outwards. The bolt enters the striking plate when the door is closed. They should be fitted to the top and the bottom of a door, close to the hinges. The bolt is usually mortised into the hinge edge of the door, but it may be surface mounted. The striking plate is rebated into the frame in a similar way to a mortise lock.

Door chains
These prevent a door being opened more than a small amount (the chain is about 200mm long). A door limiter serves a similar function, but neither will provide more than limited protection, especially when the door is partly open. For full protection, a locking door bar is needed.

When fitting a door chain, position it close to the centre of the door and close to the edge to prevent marking the door when it is opened. The actual fixing is simple the chain receiving plate should be screwed to the door and the chain holding plate to the frame.

Door viewers
These allow you to see out¬side the door without opening it. Different models have different angles of vision - normally between 150 and 175 degrees. Choose one with as wide an angle as possible. Some models are made to fit different door thicknesses.

A door viewer should be fitted centrally in the door at eye-level and should be used in conjunction with a porch light.

About the Author

The correct drill size is very important for secure fitting. You would also be interested in learning how to remove a window frame. Also learn how to add a garden window if you find some extra time to work on your home decoration.

What's the piece called that's under the side of a car's door sill?

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd83/aryukei/damage.jpg
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd83/aryukei/door.jpg

This is my car. Attached to the bottom of the door sill is this metal piece, It's COMPLETELY rusted. (Outlined green in pic 1 and red in pic 2) It needs to be replaced. Just wondering if anyone knew the name of that part.

*Additional question*
(Different picture&rusted area)
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd83/aryukei/corolladamage.jpg

Does anyone know how I would go about repairing this also? (Outlined in yellow)

Thank You!

Under the door is the rocker panel. The last foto you posted was the rear quarter panel. This can be replaced at a body shop. You just need to buy a rear LOWER quarter panel, not a full quarter.

CrossPolo joins supermini range
Meet the Polo with a little off-road attitude. Joining the standard, Bluemotion and GTI models as the fourth varient in the range, the CrossPolo adds as a slice of SUV ruggedness to the stylish supermini.

Thanks for visiting!