Shock Strut
2008
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Shock Strut
Checkout Ebay Auctions For The Cheapest Prices
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 Lift Support/Shock/Strut/Prop Rod  US $19.19
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 2007-2008 KYB Shock & Strut Catalog US $5.00
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 OEM NEW Porsche 944 hood shock/strut US $30.63
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 Lift Support/Shock/Strut/Prop Rod US $25.71
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 Lift Support/Shock/Strut/Prop Rod US $26.59
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 Lift Support/Shock/Strut/Prop Rod US $26.59
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 Prairie 400 kvf400 front shock strut 45023-1011-CD US $13.95
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 KYB Chevy Rear Shock Absorber Strut Insert Suspension * US $42.00
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 SUSPA C16-02622 GAS SPRING PROP STRUT SHOCKS 2 (TWO) US $30.35
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 BMW Hood Damper Shock Strut E39 525I 528I 530I 540I M5 US $20.99
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Here are some more information for Shock Strut:
When something seems too good to be true, it usually isn't. Remember that amazing deal on the Brooklyn Bridge? But, that's not the case with lift kits. Whether you're looking to compensate for those larger tires or just want a little extra lift to position yourself above the herd, inexpensive lift kits are affordable and easy to install yourself. Suspend your disbelief and prepare to be amazed!
Lift kits come in two formats: a body kit and a suspension kit. As its name implies, a body kit raises a vehicle's body, but the stock suspension system remains the same height. On the other hand, a suspension kit raises the actual height of the stock suspension component, which also raises the body of the rig.
Though somewhat time-consuming, installing a lift kit is a fairly simple process. Unlike older kits, current models like the Jeep Wrangler, Suburban and Sierra lift kit, are custom-configured to each make, model and year. Plus, many kits are engineered to bolt directly onto your stock suspension without any modification-no welding, chopping or fabricating required. Even if you're not brave enough to take on the job yourself, you can still save a ton of money by buying the parts separately and paying for the labor at a local shop.
But, for those who are brave enough, here's a general overview of the process.
Begin by elevating the vehicle with a trolley jack or lift unit so all four wheels are off the ground. After removing the wheels, you can disconnect the sway bar, tie rods and the control arm. After that, carefully remove each shock, strut and coil from the wheels.
Next, make note of the amount of space between the strut top plate and the bottom of each shock. You can then use a spring compressor to compress each spring and remove each rubber unit of the shock array components. Once the rubber components are removed, new lift kit rubber elements and plates can be mounted in their place.
After new plates and rubber shock units are reinstalled and bolted on tight, attach each shock by adhering to the measurements previously noted. The skid plates can now be removed and the bolts and fasteners holding up the differential are taken out. Doing so allows for the spacers, which are mounted between the differential and cross supports.
When the spacing units are mounted correctly in place, the skid plates are reconnected and the shock absorbers are aligned, the job is complete and the vehicle should be lifted according to the specifications of the kit.
When you modify the height of your vehicle, pay close attention to your suspension system. The suspension in your car or truck supports the weight of the vehicle, its passengers and cargo. Lift kits, like the Silverado or Ford F150 lift kits, raise your vehicle higher off its center of gravity, increasing the amount of effort the suspension has to put out. So, be prepared to add performance-grade suspension components to avoid excessive body squat and dive while accelerating or braking, keeping your suspension performing safely and at its peak.
A Sierra lift kit, Suburban lift kit and F150 lift kits all add a minimum of 3 inches of extra height and a unique appearance to your vehicle. Not bad for something that can be installed in your own driveway with basic tools and a minimum of effort!
Prioritize your Car's Modification: Shocks Before Rims and Low Pro Tires
The advantages to buying aftermarket rims and low profile tires are Higher-profile tires have a longer and narrower contact patch with asphalt, whereas low profile tires have a contact patch that is broader, but shorter. So what does all that mean for you and your vehicle in plain English? Essentially,it means that your car will handle and perform differently on the road with these types of tires. Cars with wider tires have more cornering force, while higher tires have the distinct disadvantage of not being able to handle much corner load. That problem is exacerbated the higher the vehicle is in relation to those high profile tires.
Consider first before you add those rims and tires, the importance of (in many cases) replacing those stock shocks and springs. For many sport compact owners, this means the addition of coilovers. Why would I recommend this first? Because those low profile tires are going to rattle the death out of most stock suspensions. Low profile tires will create a heavier burden on your suspension than they were made to handle. So try out sum aftermarket coilover manufacturers.
A coilover is an automobile suspension device. "Coilover" is short for "coil spring over strut". It consists of a shock absorber (British: damper) with a coil spring encircling it. The shock absorber and spring are assembled as a unit prior to installation, and are replaced as a unit when the shock absorber has leaked. This provides for optimal damping without torsional loads. Some coilovers may be adjustable for ride height and stiffness, using a simple threaded spring perch similar to a nut. The coilover is a basic component of the MacPherson strut suspension system, which is distinguished from other arrangements by employing a particular design of anti-roll bar as a longitudinal constraint. This was the first widespread use of the coilover in automobile suspensions; but there are other designs. The word coilover should not be considered a synonym for the MacPherson strut arrangement. Coilovers should not be confused with struts or independently mounted shock absorbers.
Visit my site for a comprehensive list of high quality manufacturers of coilovers.
About the Author
William Ward is a contributor to Road and Track Magazine, a member of SEMA and owner of www.ShockValuesRacing.com
My 01' Ford Ranger has an annoying squeaking in the front left shock/strut area, Any idea's to what it is/Fix?
check your tie rod end and/or ball joints. fords have a bad tendency to go dry and squeak like crazy. if they don't have grease fittings (and a lot of them don't) shoot some wd-40 or equivalent in there and see if it stops the squeaking. then figure out whether or not you need to replace it based on how much play there is... you probably need ball joints anyway. ford trucks eat those like candy.
Mary Ann Lindley: The spirit of 2010: Greed and a New Realism
It is easy to get swept up in the glories of greed. It's possibly in our survivalist DNA, the need to hunt and gather, to grasp and glory in having more than enough stuff to feel secure in every way — from our tummies to our place in the pecking order.
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