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Bracket Ford
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You are sitting in your car at a traffic light late at night and see a Cadillac CTS-V drive by. The first thing you notice is the bright whitish-blue light that is emitted by the headlights of the CTS-V. The CTS-V is equipped with an HID headlight lighting system, as are many high-end cars today, which put off a much brighter light than your standard halogen light bulbs. There are many aftermarket kits available today that will enable you to add the same lighting system to your car and get the cool glow of the lights, plus dramatically improved lighting.

HID stands for high intensity discharge. Instead of a filament, HID light bulbs are filled with xenon gas. When high voltage is applied, the gas ignites to produce an arc of light. Compared to a standard halogen bulb, the HID bulbs put out three times as much light. The gas also glows at a higher color temperature, producing the distinct color of the light kit. The higher the color temperature, the more color the light will have.

An HID kit will come with two bulbs; two ballasts (igniters) and the wiring required to install the kit. HID bulbs require over 20,000 volts to ignite the gas and the ballasts are equipped with very high quality voltage lines to accomplish this. The ballast will ignite the gas so the bulb can emit light. Once the bulbs are lit, they only require 85 watts to stay lit.

HID bulbs put off three times as much light, even though they burn at 35 watts, whereas traditional bulbs burn at 55 watts. On standard bulbs to increase the light output generally a higher wattage bulb is used. The color temperature of a bulb determines the color at which the light will burn. The kits on the market will generally range from 4300K, all the way up to 12,000K. The lower the number, the more white the light, and also the brighter the light. As the color temperature goes up, the bulbs become bluer, all the way up to purple on some kits.

There are a few misconceptions though about HID kits. For instance, many people believe that the higher the color number, the brighter the light. This is untrue. As the color temperature goes up, the light actually gets dimmer. If you were to compare a 5000K kit to a 7000K kit, the 5000K kits would be 10% brighter. Additionally, a 7000K is about 10% brighter than a 9000K kit. Another misconception is that HID kits put off tremendous heat. This also is untrue. They only put off 35 watts, compared to 55 on a halogen bulb.

Depending on your car, you may or may not need or want a kit for the high beams. Most HID kits are so bright, you will barely ever use the high beam lights. Also, high beam HID kits are not the best option for everyday driving because they take longer to ignite and take over a minute to heat up to full temperature, which would prevent you from using the high beam to "flash" and oncoming driver, or just use in a quick corner. Many companies will offer dual filament kits, but with the time it takes to ignite, it is recommended to use a high quality light bulb for a nice lighting combination.

Installation on HID kits is fairly straightforward and if you are mechanically inclined, you should be able to perform the work. Installation typically takes about an hour, but can vary on different models of cars. To get started, remove the factory bulb, unplug it and set it aside. Next, install the HID light bulb in your light housing where the factory plug was previously located. Then plug the wire for the HID bulb into the connector on the ballast. Next, plug the other connector on the ballast into the factory plug for the factory headlight bulb. The last step, and usually the most difficult one, is finding a place to mount the ballast. Most kits will come with a slide-in bracket for the ballast for ease of install. The ballast has to be mounted within a few inches of the headlight, so right behind the light is best. The last thing you will need to do is run a power and ground wire for the kit to your battery and you are finished. The HID lights will come on with your factory headlight switch, so there is no need to run an extra switch to power the bulbs.

If your car is equipped with aftermarket headlight housings you may or may not be able to install an HID kit. Projector or angel eyes headlights traditionally will not allow for an HID kit to be installed. The reason for this is due to the length of the HID bulb. HID bulbs are longer than halogen bulbs, and with a projector, the housing may not be deep enough to accommodate the bulb. On some lights, you may be able to get the HID bulb to fit, but in most cases it will not.

The market is becoming flooded with many kits, the hardest part has become choosing a quality kit. I would recommend purchasing the kit from a vendor in the US, if at all possible, who stocks the replacement parts, because the bulbs and ballasts do fail occasionally and if you need a replacement you don't want to wait two weeks for it to arrive from overseas. A couple years ago these kits were selling for upwards of $500, now you can pick up a kit for under $200.

An HID kit is a great option to dramatically improve the lighting on your vehicle. The kit can also be returned to stock very easily if you sell your car or decide the lights are not for you. There is simply nothing else available in this price point that will improve your lighting to this degree. Install a set today and you will be amazed at the change in lighting!

Jason Helferich is the owner of Street Style Customs, an aftermarket accessory/performance business located in Cincinnati, Ohio. He has been involved with the automotive aftermarket for over 10 years and has vast knowledge on many topics in this field. You can visit their website at http://www.streetstylecustoms.com

1939 Ford Four Door Deluxe Project Part 2

What do we need to do to get this motor in?

Now its easy to assume that the Ford engine mounts do not match up to the Chevys. We found our Hot Rods engine and trans mounts  at Chasssis Engineering. They come with hardware and simple instructions. Our Ford frame is "X" shaped and has a bracket that strengthens the "X" where the frame intersects. The original needed to be drilled out and refitted with the conversion piece.

Get it together

Our conversion pieces lined up well with the original holes. We needed to enlarge some holes to install bolts, and drill some new holes,  but all in all, its not too bad, just a bit tougher with the body on the car. The lower suspension arms need to be mounted to our center support differently and retrofit brackets are available to do this. The engine mounts are installed via a diagram. Measure twice and drill once. This is very easily done.

Mock it up

We had access to a junk engine and trans for fit. If this is not available to you, do not worry. Just use what you have and be a bit more careful. Our motor and trans fit perfectly with no surprises and looks great. Check all clearances, especially firewall. Chevys have the distributor at the rear so make sure there are no firewall clearance issues. Exhaust clearances are great and steering column will not be in the way of anything.

How does it look?

Our Chevy engine/trans combo weigh about the same as the flathead, so ride height is pretty much the same. The drivetrain dimensions are very similar, but remember that the radiator configuration is different with a Chevy. There should be no height issues as the Ford's hood is very stout and tall.

Final preparation

Once mock engine and trans are removed, we took the time to sand down the brush painted engine compartment. We did some minor bodywork around welded holes and small dents. Again, it all depends on what you want your finished product to look like. Use a good wax and grease remover for a final wipe down. We chose to put a coat of primer prior to applying two coats of a satin black finish. This will allow the focus to be on the engine, and also keeps with the factory look.

Engine and trans paint

Since we are painting, now is the perfect time to paint your engine and trans. Again, we chose the factory lead sled look and painted the engine a dark green while leaving the trans a satin black as well. Our motor was brand new so we took the time to clean and prep prior to painting. Same with the trans. If you do not have a paint booth, allow a good day or two for the paint to dry sufficiently. Dont rush this part as it will just ruin the final product you worked so hard to achieve.

Next time: we assemble the engine and trans and in it goes!

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help if you can. i need a pic.of the bracket placement on a 1972 ford or Lincoln?

i'm restoring a lincoln continetal

have you went to the local library and looked in a Chilton's Manuel or you could buy one for about 50$ from an auto parts store

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